Travels with Peter & Kerry

Aitutaki

2013

 

In 2013 we had our second trip to the Cook Islands, when we spent ten days on Aitutaki.

Aitutaki-aerial

Aitutaki is the Cook Islands’ second most visited destination and is about 45 minutes by air from Rarotonga, the country’s main island. It curls gently around one of the South Pacific’s most beautiful lagoons and is what most people imagine a tropical island to be – crystal clear water lapping white sandy beaches, coconut palms swaying in the trade winds, while foaming breakers tumble endlessly onto the perimeter reef.

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Although the island rises 4,000 metres through the Pacific, the highest point of Aitutaki is Maungapu, which is only 123 metres above sea level. The triangular fringing reef is about 45 km around while the the total land area of the island is 18 km². The island is shaped like a hook, with O’otu Beach at the point and the airstrip to the north. The town of Arutanga is on the west coast and several small villages lie on the east coast. The fifteen small motu (13 coral islets and 2 volcanic remnants) around the edge of the lagoon are uninhabited.

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Motu around the Aitutaki lagoon

The people of Aitutaki are Polynesian and they settled the island during the great Polynesian migration in around 900 AD. The first European to visit Aitutaki was Lieutenant William Bligh in the Bounty, who land there on 11 April 1789. This was a week after leaving Tahiti and a little over two weeks before the infamous mutiny.

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Local dancer

The Aitutaki lagoon is its most famous feature. It is reasonably shallow and is teeming with fish, so is a great place to snorkel. Many tour operators have trips on the lagoon and most of these include snorkelling and a barbecue lunch.

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Bishop’s Cruises ‘Lagoon Luva’ pulled onto Motu Akaiami during a lagoon cruise.

Giant Trevally in Aitutaki lagoon.

Giant Trevally in Aitutaki lagoon.

Many of the cruises follow different channels, but one place that is visited by all of them is the motu Tapuaetai, known as One Foot Island.

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Tapuaetai (One Foot Island) on the right.

It is possible to stay on One Foot Island, but it has no permanent residents. There is a post office that is open when cruises visit so that postcards can be sent with a One Foot Island postmark. It is also possible to have your passport stamped there.

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Passport stamped at the One Foot Island Post Office.

Air Rarotonga operates a one day tour from Rarotonga to Aitutaki. This is great for those who are unable to stay on Aitutaki. It leaves Rarotonga at about 8:00 am and returns by 5:30 pm. The all-up cost is (in 2016) NZ$493 and includes flights, a one hour tour of Aitutaki and a lunch cruise on the lagoon aboard Titi-ai-Tonga – a catamaran based on a traditional Polynesian ocean-going vaka. This cruise stops at One Foot Island and allows plenty of time for swimming and snorkelling.

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Titi-ai-Tonga

While the highest point of Aitutaki is Maungapu, this is not easily accessible. The next highest point is Piraki which is (just) accessible by a two wheel drive car. Great views of the lagoon and fringing reef are available from this point.

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Looking south west from Piraki.

2 thoughts on “Aitutaki

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