Papeete is the largest town and capital of French Polynesia. It is located on the northwestern coast of the island of Tahiti. It is sometime spelled Pape’ete, which reflects the Polynesian pronunciation and origin. The name is from Tahitian and it means “basket of water”, from pape, meaning water, and ete, a basket. This is believed to refer to the legend that Queen Pomare IV only drank water drawn by a basket from the spring behind her home.
While the population of the seven ‘communes’ that make up the urban area of greater Papeete covers the area from Mahina in the north to Puna’auia on the west coast, with a population of about 134,000 at the time of the 2012 census, the business district of Papeete is centred around the port.
Papeete CBD from the port
When the first Europeans came to Tahiti (Samuel Wallis in 1767, Antoine-Louis de Bougainville in 1768 and James Cook in 1769) there was no settlement at Papeete. Ships anchored in Matavai Bay, which was dangerous when the wind blew from the west. Later that century visitors realised that the sheltered bay behind Motu Uta, with access through the reef by the Passe de Papeete, provided a better anchorage.
In 1842 France annexed some Polynesian islands, including Tahiti, after the English Protestant advisor to Queen Pomare IV convinced her to expel two French Catholic missionaries. In 1843 Papeete was declared as the administrative centre for the new protectorate.
Papeete is where all international flights arrive, as the only international airport in French Polynesia is located about 5 km southwest at Faa’a.
We were staying at Le Meridien Tahiti, which is at Tamanu, about 15 km from Papeete. The resort offers a shuttle to the centre of town, for a cost. We took advantage of this and went for a couple of hours. We were dropped off at the port and our driver, Sophie, then walked us to the Marché de Papeete. This large market has fresh fruit and vegetables, fish and meat stalls as well as the usual tourist things like pareu (Polynesian sarongs), shell necklaces, clothes and other souvenirs.
Marche de Papeete
In September 1914 German warships shelled Papeete and the market was part of the several blocks of the town that were destroyed. A newspaper photograph of the time shows the destruction, with the Cathedral of Papeete standing untouched nearby.
French magazine ‘Le Miroir’ reported on the German bombardment of 22 September 1914
Cathedral of Papeete
We did a bit of walking through Papeete and visited Parc Bougainville, a lush tropical park on Papeete’s main thoroughfare – Boulevard de la Reine Pomare IV. This park was originally Place Albert I to honour the Belgian king during the First World War, but in 1968 it was renamed in honour of Comte Louis-Antoine de Bougainville on the 200th anniversary of his visit to Tahiti. A bronze bust of the explorer is set at the park entrance.
Comte Louis-Antoine de Bougainville – bronze bust at entrance to Parc Bougainville
Part of the lush gardens in Parc Bougainville
We walked through the park and went to visit the grounds of l’Assemblée de la Polynésie Française (the Territorial Assembly).
This building is set in the gardens where the former royal palace stood. The natural pool where the spring comes out is still known as the Bain de la Reine, or Bath of the Queen.
Bridge over le Bain de la Reine
Polynesian statue in the gardens
After these gardens we went along to the Vaima Shopping Centre to buy some gifts and to sit down for a coffee.
Downtown Papeete, with Vaima Shopping Centre on right
It was time to walk back to the waterfront, in readiness to be picked up at 11:30 am. Kerry went to the Tahiti Information Centre and the Arts and Craft Market, while Peter looked out over the harbour. Papeete is a busy port, with ships carrying cargo to and from Tahiti, ferries going to Moorea and other islands, luxury vessels visiting and lots of private yachts moored.
Luxury yacht at Papeete
Part of the Papeete waterfront, with yachts in the marina and a container ship unloading in the background
Place Vai’ete, looking towards the harbour
Sophie met us on time and we headed back to Le Meridien.